Biomechanical substantiation of the technique of hanging in rock climbing

S.V. Kozin


The purpose of the work is to identify the main kinematic characteristics of a hanging in rock climbing by athletes of different qualifications and theoretically substantiate the correct technique for performing of a given movement. Material and methods. The technique of hanging performance in bouldering of 20 leading climbers of the World and Ukraine and 20 beginner male amateur climbers was analyzed. The age of athletes was 22.4 ± 3.2 years, body length 178.5 ± 12.5 cm, body weight 72.2 ± 8.5 kg. A qualified athlete took part in a demonstration of various models for performing a hang. Using the Kinovea 0.8.15 computer program, the kinematic characteristics of the two models of technology were analyzed (model 1 — typical for novice athletes, model 2 — typical of qualified athletes) based on determining the angle between the shoulder and shoulder girdle, as well as between the lumbar spine and vertical axis. Results. The main kinematic parameters of vibration in climbing for various models of equipment, characteristic of athletes of different qualifications, are revealed. The presence of significant differences (p <0.001) in the angles between the shoulder and the upper arm, between the lower spine and the vertical axis in the fixation phase of the vis is shown. The angle between the shoulder and shoulder girdle in the first model of technology was 1460, in the second model of technology this angle is 970. The angle between the lumbar spine and the vertical axis was 110 in the first model, in the second model this angle was 280. A theoretical justification of the correct hanging technique climbing in terms of the laws of mechanics and the laws of the interaction of forces in the kinematic chain. Findings. In the first model, vis is carried out mainly due to the ligamentous apparatus of the joints of the shoulder girdle with minimal inclusion of muscles, which is dangerous by injury to the ligaments of the shoulder joint. In the second model, VIS also provides for the inclusion of the muscles of the trunk and legs, which reduces the load on the ligamentous apparatus and reduces the chance of injury to the ligaments of the shoulder joint.


rock climbing; bouldering; vis; equipment; kinematic characteristics

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